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The concept of a ‘traditional’ engagement ring has progressively become a thing of the past. In a new market with endless styles and variations, it is understandable that many prospective buyers feel overwhelmed by the sea of technical jargon and complex terminologies.
Choosing a setting may be more important than you think. While personal taste and style is usually paramount when deciding on a ring style, each setting serves a specific purpose which contributes to the overall durability and, of course, look of the ring.
To make this decision a little easier, I have outlined some of the most popular setting styles and their functionality so that you can decide which one is the perfect choice for yourself or your intended.
18k White Gold Vatche 191 Swan Solitaire Engagement Ring
A claw or ‘prong’ setting is considered one of the more classic options for an engagement ring. It features small claws of metal that grip and hold the diamond in place. The style usually features four or six claws, although in some cases as many as eight claws will be used to hold the diamond in place. The shape of the claws can vary; you will notice that some create a V shape beneath the diamond, a popular choice for a princess cut stone. Other shapes are pointed, flat, and round.
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James Allen Platinum Bezel Set Diamond Engagement Ring
A bezel or rub-over setting is also an extremely popular choice for an engagement ring setting due to its beauty and practicality. A small rim of metal holds the diamond in place, meaning there is no possibility of scratching or snagging clothing. As the name suggests, one can ‘rub-over’ the diamond smoothly.
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James Allen 14K White Gold Contoured Twist Engagement Ring
A tension setting uses the pressure of a specially designed band to hold the diamond in place, giving the illusion that the diamond is simple touched by the metal on either side. Small grooves are cut into the band to ensure the diamond sits tight within the setting. The diamond is then anchored at the back with prongs or a basket design to hold it in place.
This setting truly demonstrates the complex engineering that goes into a setting. The principles can be applied to a number of band styles (sweeping, geometric, etc.) and can hold a number of diamond shapes.
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Whiteflash Platinum Honey Channel-Set Diamond Wedding Ring
Channel setting is used to secure rows of smaller diamonds alongside a solitaire, or in a band in their own right. The stones are held by the grooves of the channel without claws. This style of setting is most commonly used for round brilliant or princess cut stones but can actually be used for almost any shape of diamond.
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James Allen 14K White Fold Petite Pavé Engagement Ring
Taken from the French ‘to pave’, the intention of a pavé setting is to give the impression of a paved surface of diamonds and sparkle.
The diamonds are set into small holes that are drilled into the band. After this, the spaces between the diamonds are filled with tiny beads and droplets of metal, giving a continuous covering until the band is no longer showing.
A pavé setting is also used for setting very tiny diamonds in the same style, although this is sometimes referred to as ‘beading’ or ‘micro-pavé’.
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Ernest Jones 9ct White Gold Diamond Illusion Set Solitaire
Unlike the other settings we have looked at, an illusion setting is a more encompassing term which is simply defined by any method used by a jewelry maker to give the appearance of a larger diamond, or of one complete diamond.
This can be achieved in many ways. The ring above uses a faceted metal halo to give the impression of a larger stone.
Starla 6 Claw Solitaire Effect Diamond Engagement Ring
This ring uses a pavé diamond setting to give the impression of a large solitaire (when viewed from a distance)
Illusion Set Pear Shape Engagement Ring
This ring uses various diamond shapes to create the illusion of a full pear cut solitaire
Other methods include using metal chips between the diamonds to give the impression of a larger stone, or simply setting tessellating stones very close to each other to create the illusion.
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Ritani French-Set Halo Diamond Engagement Ring
A halo setting describes a center stone that features a continuous row of diamonds or gemstones around it. A halo can be used to enhance any shape of diamond, and while pavé is usually the first choice for a halo design, channel, and claw settings are also used.
A halo is a great way of maximizing the size of a ring and adding additional sparkle to a center stone. Some pieces of jewelry will feature double or triple halos.
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18K White Gold Verragio Bead-Set Cathedral Diamond Engagement Ring
A cathedral setting uses high arches of metal to attach the setting to the shank. Bezel, prong and tension settings can all be enhanced and elevated by a cathedral setting.
They can be heavily stylized, with intricate metalwork making them a good alternative for those who want that extra something without adding additional diamonds.
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James Allen 18K White Gold 1.00CTW. Bar Set Diamond Anniversary Ring
A bar setting is a modern and sleek technique, where diamonds are set using bars of metal on either side of the ring. It shows more of the diamond than a channel set but offers a similar level of security as the diamonds are also anchored by metal at the back.
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Whiteflash 3mm 14K White Gold Benchmark Scattered Diamond Wedding Band
A flush setting (also known as a drill or gypsy setting) offers the highest security to the wearer. A stone is set into a drilled hole in the band, and the surrounding metal is hammed into place so it sits flush to the band.
A flush setting is only suitable for the hardest stones (such as diamonds or sapphires) as the intense process of hammering can damage softer stones such as emeralds.
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James Allen 14K White Gold Grande’ Floral Diamond Cluster Engagement Ring
A cluster setting describes diamonds that are set closely together to create an overall shape. Clusters can be used to create a similar effect to an illusion setting, however the focus is less on creating the impression of one diamond, and more on maximizing style and sparkle.
A cluster setting will often give a vintage feel to a ring and can feature stones of varying shapes and sizes.
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Hearts on Fire Channel Diamond Eternity Band
An eternity band describes a style rather than a setting. It features a full row of diamonds in a band that goes on for ‘eternity’. Modern tradition sees partners giving these rings after the birth of a first child, however they are also used as wedding bands, engagement rings and gifts to mark significant events.
An eternity band can set with prong, channel, pave, and flush settings. While diamonds are a traditional choice, an eternity band can be set in any precious stone, adding color to a traditional wedding stack or simply being worn alone.
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Hearts on Fire Camilla Split Shank Engagement Ring
A shank refers to the actual ‘ring’ part of the ring (the part that encircles your finger). These can split, as we can see in the example above, or twisted into unique shapes as we see in the example below.
Whiteflash 18k White Gold Verragio Twisted Shank Princess 3-Stone Engagement Ring
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Choosing a setting ultimately comes down to two factors; taste and practicality. With so many unique styles and combinations available, there is no reason why both requirements can’t be fulfilled.
Think about how to get the most out of your setting, and which will offer the greatest enhancement to your diamond. Experiment with combining style features (e.g., a prong set solitaire with a split shank, a channel set band with colored stones) to create the look you are after. Consider how much maintenance you are willing to give your ring, and how much comfort it offers as some styles will be less practical for an active lifestyle than others.
After you have completed your search for the perfect setting, be sure to find the perfect diamond to accompany it.